We had booked into a hotel outside Parma and, as it was late evening, we checked in, had an evening meal, collapsed on the bed and slept.

Next day dawned warm and sunny so we decided to explore Parma, easily finding a multi-storey car park near the historic centre. I remembered reading ‘La Chartreuse de Parme’ by Stendhal at Univerity and was enchanted to discover that there is still a charterhouse at Parma, believed to be the one which inspired Stendhal’s novel. No time to explore it today, but next time…

Walking in Parma was a delight. The city has an 18th century look with fine buildings and fabulous shops, as you would expect from its proximity to Milano. The frocks were so pretty and the shoes and handbags were ultra stylish and gorgeous. I was hurried on past these by my worried-looking husband (he had seen Prada on a few items) and ushered into an information place where we told the assistant that we only had an hour or so in Parma. She directed us to the 11th century Romanesque Duomo and the Baptistery and after seeing these (fine examples of Renaissance art and architecture) we just wandered in the sun, loving the lively atmosphere, wishing we could be there longer to enjoy all the concerts, operas (Giuseppe Verdi was born just oustide Parma) and theatre performances advertised in this creative, energetic place.

After a coffee in a cobbled square, we ambled back past city gents genially going about their business, groups of excited school children and their harassed teachers, and stylish urban ladies, dressed for lunch and buying delicious things to put in their stylish bags. We were laughing as we walked along and a man in a parked car looked over and laughed with us, as if out of sheer companionship and good humour!

We will definitely be back to see the city properly and explore the county of Parma with its fabulous castles.

Before leaving we found a marvellous food place where dishes to take away were cooked on the premises and the smells and sights were so appetising. After much mulling, we bought gently poached salmon with vegetable dressing, roasted pork with herb stuffing wrapped in prosciutto (the fabled Parma ham), some mini pizzas with anchovy and olive toppings and fresh focacciio, crispy on the outside and light and soft inside. We added some fresh fruit salad and bottles of apple juice, made from sweet mountain apples.

With provender for the next couple of days, we set off again down the A1 towards Umbria.

Colmar. Why didn’t we know more about this fabulous place? This beautiful city in Alsace, on the French- German border, contains an historic core of half-timbered buildings, some decorated in Renaissance style, Voltaire’s residence, Little Venice with its picturesque canals and the home of Frederic Bartholdi who created the Statue of Liberty at the entrance to New York’s great harbour.

The buildings date from the 12th century onwards and are painted in vibrant colours. Beautifully crafted signs hang outside the old shops and at the top of the huge collegiate church sits a dignified stork atop a vast and untidy nest of twigs.

This is only a scattering of the sights to see and enjoy. Colmar possesses a wealth of architectural treasures dating from various periods. To see them, you can also take a boat ride around the canals or sit in a horse-drawn carriage and be drawn round the little streets in comfort.

We wandered around, exclaiming over each marvellous medieval street until our feet ached and we longed for a cup of tea. After a hot mug of Darjeeling, we set out to find a restaurant and discovered the Wistub in Petit Venise where we engulfed plates of fresh gambas with creamy risotto, mushrooms and fresh-as-fresh asparagus followed by a rhubarb tart (Himself) and a raspberry vacherin with homemade meringue (me).

Back in our hotel, time to catch up with emails and plan the route to Parma tomorrow via the Gothard Tunnel.

Hooray! At last we’re setting off for sunny Italy after days of wind and rain in grey Britain. Approaching Folkestone the sun broke through and shone from blue skies. The Channel Tunnel was so quick and efficient – we hardly knew we were moving when, suddenly, we were in France and ready to roll.

The drive to Reims was easy, steady and peaceful and our hotel is ideal with a clean and quiet room. The restaurant has already set us in a good mood with excellent wine – Mouton Cadet for Himself and a beautiful Sauvignon Blanc for me, along with kingsize prawns in garlic and olive oil with chives and herbs, frites (of course) and haricots verts.

The dessert buffet was fabulous and included such delights as mini doughnuts (light as a feather) filled with crème anglaise, fresh rhubarb and strawberries, almond galettes, pistachio tarts and loads of other lovely French delights.

We are now back in our room feeling delightfully mellow, coffee in hand and planning our route to Colmar. Vive les vacances!

Perugia's Historic Centre

Have you ever sat and daydreamed about escaping the daily grind into warm Mediterranean sunshine?    I used to do this a lot and longed to be in sunny places.  But, one day, things began to change.

I had just learnt that one of my colleagues was counting down the days until he and his wife motored down to start a new life in Umbria in central Italy.  Graham described the rolling green hills, the wide valleys, those magical little hill towns, the glories of Assisi and the magnificence of the Apennines.

They planned to set up a business, sourcing and selling properties in Umbria over the Internet.  Six months later, I contacted him to see if he had anything suitable on his books as a holiday house and indeed he had.  Ian and I took the plunge and one dark and stormy night, found ourselves motoring down the A1 towards Lake Trasimeno, rain lashing the windscreen.  Outside, it was pitch dark and we couldn’t make out any of the countryside we were rushing through.  From time to time we would drive through tunnels under the hills and at last found ourselves south of Perugia where we found our turning for Papiano, across the dark and rain-pitted River Tiber.  When we saw Graham silhouetted against a lamp-lit window, we felt a rush of relief that we had arrived safely and that the adventure was really beginning.

Lin had made us a hot and tasty meal, washed down by wine from their own vineyards and we toasted our feet by their log fire before sinking gratefully into bed and a dreamless sleep.

Papiano and View to the Appenines

Next morning, Graham suggested it was time to go and look at the house.  Donatella, our estate agent, would be waiting for us there.  Minutes later we were drawing into a little car park, just outside a small, fortified village built into and around the curve of the hill.  Tall fir trees stood further down in the valley, partly masking the more recent village below.  We walked up the little lane into the village.

Above us, to the left, a tall campanile started chiming out the hours as we walked past.  A black cat stalked across the path but apart from it, there seemed to be no one about on this cold, December morning.  We had a quick look at the outside of the house.  Lots of crumbling pinky-terracotta brick, small windows with shutters, a little courtyard garden with some trees.  Then hurriedly we crowded into the house and out of the cold.

That first day, the house seemed dark and unloved.  The owners seemed to be eccentric – someone had parked their Vespa in the middle of the sitting room floor!  The oven door was broken and there was a lot of dark brown furniture.

But we began to look beyond the décor.   The roof had recently been replaced and was in good, sound condition.  Upstairs, the great beams looked authentic and the wooden ceiling above looked warm and solid.  If the furniture were all taken out, all the walls and ceilings painted white, it would look charming with its open fire and warm red tile floors.

But there was something more.  Something I knew we both felt instinctively.  This was a friendly little house.  It had a warm and soothing atmosphere.  Work could be done to improve the cosmetic look of the place and we felt that it had a benevolent feel.  It could be a home-from-home in Italy.  Papiano was well placed.  It was an authentic medieval village but was within ten miles of the University town of Perugia and also within easy driving distance of major tourist attractions like Assisi, Siena, Florence, Cortona, Todi, Orvieto, Spoleto and many more.

It was all making sense.  This really was a once in a lifetime opportunity, to buy a property abroad with friends who understood the system, and spoke the language, and could help with the process of purchase and renovation:  and then to manage the property for us when we were a thousand miles away, back in Somerset.  Our friends also knew local builders and surveyors as well as a good lawyer and we found Andrea, our intelligent and helpful English-speaking accountant who still helps us with all aspects of finance and insurance.

Overhead, the skies cleared and a pale sun shone on the terracotta rooftops.  We decided to go ahead and buy this friendly little house.  In her office in Marsciano, Donatella, the estate agent, rattled through the paper work.  She explained that we would need to open a bank account and obtain a codice fiscale (tax code number) without which, nothing can be done in Italy.  We paid the deposit in cash and signed all the papers as directed.  Donatella finally put down her pen.  “Bravo!  Benissimo!  Soon the little house will be yours!”

We had a celebratory meal in Assisi.  The food arrived, great steaming pizzas with melted mozzarella, slivers of spicy sausage and tomato sauce with rosemary and thyme.  This was accompanied by bowls of fresh green insalata mista with a dressing of olive oil and balsamic vinegar.  The waitress brought the wine in a big decanter.  We poured it into our four glasses and raised a toast to Italy and to the start of a new adventure.

Papiano House In Snow

After lunch, as we hurried back out onto the pavements, we realised that the afternoon was well advanced and the air even colder.  We wrapped up in scarves gloves, turning up our collars against the winter chill.  There were not many people about and the little town looked romantic and mysterious in the ebbing daylight.  Bright lights from the shops spilled out onto the pavement and, overhead, each one had its Christmas tree sprinkled with little white stars.  We continued on down the street, towards the great bulk of St Francis’ basilica.  The sun was beginning to go down on this winter’s afternoon.

Huge indigo storm clouds were building up, over towards Perugia, obscuring the golden light which had filled the wide plain of Spoleto.  The clouds were turning purple and maroon, shot through with lances of silver and gold. “Look!” someone cried.  We all craned upwards to see millions of black specks whirling down out of the sky.  The myriad specks were turning to white as they fell at our feet, on our shoulders and sparkled in our hair.  The little streets and green fir trees of Assisi were turning white, magically transforming into the most romantic wintry scene you could imagine.  As if in answer to a Christmas wish, it was starting to snow out of the sunset.

After that, there was a pause of three months to let the mills of Italian law grind slowly. We made several more visits to get through the layers of Italian bureaucracy but we were helped enormously by Donatella and her very friendly staff and by Graham and Lin who, since they live only a couple of miles from our village, were able to hold our hands throughout the buying process.  At last, in the following Easter the house was ours and in May we embarked on a six-week stay to equip it with everything needed for a good holiday.

Living room, Casa Mimosa

During those hectic weeks, we drove down to Rome, several times, to buy all the furniture as well as a new cooker, fridge/freezer, microwave and washing machine.  Delivery was hazardous as, once you get past the village piazzina, the borgo is accessible to pedestrians only.  So the delivery men had to employ brute strength and muscles to lift in the bigger items.  The sofa bed would not go in the door so our friendly builders built some scaffolding and hoisted it up through the lobby windows.

Other stuff, which we had ordered from Rome, just failed to appear and we spent a frantic evening on the phone trying to locate it.  I was convinced that the whole consignment was lost in Italy and we would never find it again!  Eventually, the delivery guys appeared at 20 past 10 at night, apologising profusely for being so late.  I was so relieved to see them that I was ready to forgive them everything but Ian reckoned they had been in some local bar watching a big football match which was on at the time.   They soon made up for it by delivering the stuff into the house promptly the following morning.

The neighbours helped by providing us with freshly baked pizza, cakes, coffees and general encouragement.  Guglielmo, a builder across the alleyway from us, took down, renovated and repainted all the shutters a lovely dark green.  He also completely rendered the end wall of the house.  Although we liked the old crumbly bricks, they were in a bad way and a provided a nice home for scorpions, so we covered it all up in a traditional soft peachy-pink render.

Soon our lovely builders, two English guys, Tony and Jez, whom Graham knew, had renovated the whole house, repainting all the walls and ceilings pure white, replacing the bathroom with a brand new shower room and refreshing the kitchen.  Then, suddenly, the dust settled, all the debris cleared away, the builders, who with their wives had become good friends, moved out and little house was ours to enjoy.  We had a party, lit all the rooms with candles and dined out in the courtyard garden with the good friends who had helped to bring it all about.

Casa Mimosa, Papiano, Umbria

The dark and neglected little house had become a warm, bright and welcoming little home from home, snug within the encircling medieval house and friendly neighbours.  And we had years ahead to explore the magical hilltop towns of Umbria and Tuscany and enjoy all that the Italian good life has to offer.

Now the adventure truly had begun and continues to this day!

Open Fire, Casa Mimosa

Ambrosial, award-winning puddings!

We recently took my sister and brother-in-law across the valley to have lunch in L’Antico Forziere, a country-house restaurant just off the E45 south of Deruta.

We had seen its sign several times and kept meaning to go and explore so on a sunny morning we set out to drive the 3 km from the house.  The hotel/restaurant is set in its own grounds, surrounded by conifers and with a pleasant terrace for dining out on summer evenings.

We had a warm welcome to the nicely decorated interior, with its golden stone arches displaying its previous role as a strong-house for guarding valuables.

The only other people there were an American couple.

We sipped our complimentary Prosecco and got ready to order lunch.  When the waiter arrived to take the orders, we were surprised that he also wanted our order for desserts at the same time.  He explained that these are made freshly each time and that the chef would be starting to create them right away.  This seemed unusual and we had the impression that a treat was on the way.

And a treat it was.  The whole meal was scrumptious but when the desserts arrived, we were so bowled over that my brother-in-law got out his camera to take pictures!

Amused by our reactions, the American couple leaned over for a chat.  When we said how good the desserts were, they laughed in surprise:

‘Well, you know that this restaurant has won awards for the best desserts in Italy, don’t you?’  It was our turn to be surprised.  We had no idea!

‘Oh yes,’ they went on, ‘We have made a special trip to come and try them.  We were staying on Isola del Giglio and have come ashore and travelled all the way across Tuscany to Umbria, to find this place.  And you just stumbled on it!’

Together, we ooh-ed and aah-ed over the dishes which were little works of art and tasted every bit as good as they looked.

As we said our goodbyes and got into the car to meander the short distance back to the house, we felt so lucky to have such a great place on our doorstep.

Of course, the world knows about the island of Giglio now, as the place where the cruise liner Costa Concordia hit a rock and went aground.  But to us it will always be associated with those nice Americans who thought it was worth a trip of over 100 miles to come and sample those ambrosial puddings!

Perugia's Historic Centre

About three-quarters of the way up, I spotted the sign to the car park and after a right and a left, we found ourselves in an underground multi-storey. After parking, we obtained a ticket from the vending machine and set off.  We were charmed to discover that, as with Todi, there is no need for strenuous climbing.  Escalators took us gently up several levels until we came out into one of the most extraordinary places we had seen.  This was an ancient part of Perugia, the remains of the old papal fortress, the Rocca Paolina.

Perugia - Galleria Nazionale

We walked up a narrow road which was closed over by vaulted brick work, marveling at the scale of this underground city, until a final escalator took us up into the sunlight and on to the main corso.  To our left, the Hotel Brufani offered us hot and restoring espressos before we ambled up the main road, enjoying the shops and the fine medieval buildings.

As a University town, Perugia has a great atmosphere, with thronging students crossing to their lectures around the fine old buildings.  If you want to brush up your Italian while you are in Italy, you can enroll on courses at the Universitá per Stranieri (University for Foreigners).

The city has a superb ancient centre, filled with monuments from its Etruscan, Roman and medieval past.  Chief sight is the Palazzo dei Priori, often called Italy’s finest medieval civic palace, and its two artistic highlights:  the Collegio di Cambio, frescoed by Perugino, and the Galleria Nazionale, home to the region’s principal art collection.- don’t miss Piera della Francesco’s majestic altarpiece.  You should also see the archaeological museum, the cathedral, the Etruscan well and the churches of San Severo (Raphael fresco), San Domenico and San Pietro.

Just off the main Corso, to your right going towards the cathedral church, you will find the Caffe di Perugia, excellent for a browse through the papers with an espresso or lunch before starting to explore.  The Hotel La Rosetta also serves good lunches.

On our way back, we revisited the Hotel Brufani and sat out on the sunny terrace to enjoy our tea along with the view across the Tiber Valley, flanked on the left by the Apennines and, in the far blue distance, the Sibylline Hills.

For extensive information on Perugia, go to Perugia Online  See also links to Umbria Jazz  and the Chocolate Festival in Perugia or www.carnifest.com.

Perugia - The View Towards the Apennine Hills

It was also the year we organised a villa party for 14 friends in nearby San Gemini.  We stayed in a fabulous palazzo, (Santi Terzi, rentable through Tuscany Now  which had once been owned by Antonio Canova, the sculptor who created the famous ‘The Three Graces’.

It was one of those occasions when everything was just right.  The wonderful palace with its huge rooms, marble floors and enormous windows which opened out to the exquisite views of the lilting Umbrian hills was a place of magic and fairytales.  There was a tower which we climbed in the evening to listen to the nightingales and during the languorous June days we set out to explore the area.  Afterwards, we all agreed it had been a perfect holiday in great company.

On one such day, Ian and I found ourselves at Carsulae, which is just outside San Gemini and near to the E45, only about 25 minutes drive from the house.

As we walked down towards the ancient ruins, clouds of bright blue butterflies danced in the air and, in amongst the ripe barley, thousands of poppies splashed vivid scarlet amongst the gold.

Built on the Via Flaminia, the Roman road from Rome to Ancona, this used to be a considerable settlement.  You can still see the grooves worn by chariots on the ancient stone road.  The place has a magical quality and a lovely atmosphere on a quiet summer morning. We spent a serene three hours ambling around the site, undisturbed by other visitors and accompanied by bird song.  It is a place to dream of times past and find repose for the mind!  After an espresso at the café and a look round the little museum, we returned home refreshed and enchanted at the memory of those scarlet poppies and hundreds of blue butterflies fluttering above fields of gold.

Wikipedia (Vian Andrews) tells us:

“When the via Flaminia was built, its western branch led north from Terni, sparking the development not only of Carsulae, but also of Acquasparta and Bevagna.  This branch of the road courses through a gently rolling upland plain at the foot of the Martani mountain range, an area that had been heavily populated since the middle of the Bronze Age.  The eastern branch led from Terni, north to Spoleto, then past Trevi and finally to Foligno, where it merged with the western branch.

“In due course, during the age of Emperor Augustus, Carsulae became a Roman municipium.  It was during his reign that a number of major works, including the amphitheatre, most of the forum, and a marble-clad arch (now called the Arch of San Damiano) at the north entrance were built.  During its “golden age” Carsulae, supported by agricultural activity in the surrounding area, was prosperous and wealthy.  Its bucolic setting, its large complex of mineralized thermal baths, theatres, temples and other public amenities, attracted wealthy and even middle class “tourists” from Rome.”

How to get there by car from the house

From Perugia go south on the E45 about 70 km then follow the signs.  It is about a ½ hour easy drive from Papiano.  There is a café and loo and a small museum on site.  This makes a lovely morning excursion.  You can read more about it in the visitors’ file in the house, including a list of the buildings which once stood there, their purpose and origins.

View through archway at Carsulae

Roman walkway and arch at Carsulae

Roman arch at Carsulae

]]> http://www.italyholidaycottage.com/carsulae-a-roman-settlement-near-san-gemini/feed/ 0 http://www.italyholidaycottage.com/florence-a-renaissance-city-in-the-heart-of-tuscany/ http://www.italyholidaycottage.com/florence-a-renaissance-city-in-the-heart-of-tuscany/#comments Tue, 07 Feb 2012 14:37:48 +0000 mandycochrane http://www.italyholidaycottage.com/?p=386 A Renaissance city in the heart of Tuscany, Florence’s museums, palaces and churches are home to some of the world’s greatest treasures, making it one of the most popular cities in Italy.  Interesting streets, elegant buildings and shops offer something for everyone. The centre of Florence is quite small so you can easily walk from place to place.

Il Duomo – Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

Florence’s most popular site, standing tall over the city, is a vast Gothic building which can hold 20,000 people. The exterior is made of green, pink and white marble, and you’ll observe intricate doors and fascinating statues. The inside of the cathedral can only be described as a masterpiece of construction, containing works of art, 44 stained glass windows and a famous fresco of the poet Dante and his Divine Comedy on the left wall.

The dome, added to the cathedral in the 15th century, is best seen by climbing its 463 steps. The fresco in the interior of the dome was begun by the artist Giorgio Vasari and completed after his death by Federico Zuccari in 1579. A tour of the dome allows visitors to walk around the outside of the dome, where spectacular views of Florence and the Tuscan hills can be enjoyed.

Piazza della Signoria & Palazzo Vecchio

Florence’s most famous square is the Piazza della Signoria and it sits at the heart of Florence’s historic centre. The piazza has been the political centre of Florence since the middle ages and the medieval Palazzo Vecchio, once the home of the ruling Medici family, is now Florence’s town hall and the biggest attraction on the Piazza. Though still containing the offices of Florence’s Mayor and the City Council, most of the building is now a museum. You can visit the Palazzo’s lavishly decorated public rooms and then enjoy refreshments at the many bars, cafes and restaurants around the piazza.

The Ponte Vecchio

One of Florence’s most photographed landmarks, this very famous bridge spans the Arno River. It escaped bombing during World War II and is Florence’s oldest remaining bridge today. By night the bridge is bathed in coloured lights, making it a lovely place to visit at any time of the day.

Gold and jewellery shops line the Ponte Vecchio, where you can purchase a keepsake of your visit to Florence, or simply indulge in some wistful window shopping.  This is a high tourism area, however, so be aware that some prices may be inflated.

Galleria degli Uffizi

A very popular tourist destination, the splendid Uffizi Gallery is the primary art museum in Florence and considered by some as one of the greatest in the world. It houses the premier collection of Italian Renaissance art by such masters as Botticelli, Michelangelo, da Vinci and Titian.   A copy of Michelangelo’s David sculpture stands outside the Uffizi.

Owing to its popularity, waiting times can be long in the high season, so it’s a good idea to reserve tickets in advance to reduce your wait. You’ll be given a time slot, to which we’re told the museum is quite strict about keeping, so you can plan your day around your visit. Serious art enthusiasts will enjoy taking their time viewing the exhibits in the many rooms of the gallery but if you just want to make sure you don’t miss the major works, a guided tour might be just right for you.

Bargello

The Bargello, also known as the Bargello Palace, is a former barracks and prison, now transformed into a National Museum and the setting for many fine works of sculpture and decorative arts. Its courtyard and interiors offer some of the masterpieces of the Tuscan Renaissance, including those of Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo and Cellini.

The museum also houses splendid collections of bronzes, tapestries, enamels, ivories, amber, medals, furniture and textiles from the Medici collections and those of private donors. Visitors often comment on the sheer variety of exhibits on offer, describing it as a “treasure trove”

The Bargello is sometimes overlooked by tourists in favour of the Uffizi, but at the Bargello you’ll experience a more relaxed visit with fewer crowds, even in high season.

Galleria dell’Accademia

The Accademia gallery is one of Florence’s main attractions, owing largely to it being the home of Michelangelo’s sculpture, David, but it’s also the site of an extensive collection of exquisite Italian art. The gallery is laid out on two floors, with the most significant works being on the ground floor.

Queues can be long, but as with the Uffizi, advance tickets can be bought online to reduce your waiting time. A guided tour may add to your appreciation of all the wonderful exhibits.

Basilica di San Franscesco

A trip to Assisi isn’t complete without a visit to one of its main attractions (and a World Heritage Site), the grandiose, 13th-century Basilica di San Francesco, containing the sacred relics of St. Francis and gorgeously embellished with frescoes of his life, including those of Giotto.

An earthquake in 1997 caused considerable damage to frescoes in the Upper Church and it was closed for two years for restoration, but the basilica is once again a major attraction in Assisi.

The Basilica of St. Francis consists of two main levels, the Upper and Lower churches, plus a small underground crypt which contains the tomb of St. Francis himself. Many of the relics associated with St. Francis are on display in the Chapel of the Relics, but you’ll have to time your visit carefully as the chapel is often in use for services.

Views from the Basilica di San Francesco are wonderful, but visit in the afternoon and you’ll also be able to take advantage of the stunning sunsets over the Vale of Spoleto.

Guided tours of the Basilica are available for free at the time of writing (donations requested) and are very good.  You may also be lucky enough to catch a choir performance.

Other Important Churches in and around Assisi

Santa Maria Maggiore – the seventh largest Christian Church and the earliest extant church in Assisi.

Cathedral of San Rufino – with its beautiful Romanesque facade, rose windows and a 16th century interior, the cathedral is of significant architectural importance.

Basilica of Santa Chiara – dedicated to and containing the remains of St. Francis’ devoted follower, St. Clare of Assisi, the church is adorned with artwork depicting key moments in St. Clare’s life. The view from the piazza in front of the church is wonderful, too.

View of Assisi from the Valley

Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli – situated at the foot of the hill at Assisi, the interior of St. Mary of the Angels is simple, yet elegant (though side chapels have been decorated in a much grander way by great artists from several periods).

Chiesa Nuova – this splendid 17th Century church (New Church) is built over the site presumed to be the parental home of St. Francis.

Santo Stefano (Assisi) – One of the oldest churches in Assisi, the Church of Santo Stefano is situated in a delightful “off-track” part of Assisi, surrounded by cypress, fig and walnut trees. Built in a simple, Romanesque style, it’s as well worth a visit as the grander churches.

Eremo delle Carceri – a small monastery with a church, four kilometres above Assisi in a steep forest gorge, St. Francis is said to have visited here often to mediate and pray. The simplicity and peace of the place are much praised, with wooded trails and caves to wander amongst and enjoy. The monastery can be reached via a steep path from the Rocca Minore (between 45 minutes and an hour’s walk) or by car or taxi along the serpentine road.

Other Attractions in and around Assisi

View of Assisi

The SAIO Wine Shop – This family-run farm just a few metres from the Basilica of St Francis is a “must-visit” attraction for anyone with an interest in good wine.  Since 2005, the Mencarelli family’s passion has resulted in small production wines and extra virgin olive oil which are available to taste and purchase. They run an Apprentice Vine Grower course for enthusiasts and offer friendly tours of the vineyard.

www.saioassisi.it

Rocca Maggiore – This grand, medieval castle fortress dates back to the 12th century, dominating the region on its walled hilltop. If you’re up to the climb (and be warned there are many steps!) there are breathtaking views over Assisi and the surrounding area from the top. Like many such attractions in Italy, you’re free to roam around the site and are not restricted to a specific walkway when you arrive. Much of the castle is still intact and you can walk inside the walls (some narrow underground passages and low doorways involved). Take a picnic and time your arrival for late afternoon to take advantage of some stunning sunsets!

Piazza del Comune – This lively and well-preserved square welcomes the visitor to the heart of Assisi’s social, cultural and political life. The Roman Forum still preserves the paving and base of a Roman Temple and has been restructured recently to allow for a more enjoyable visit by tourists. We’re told there are two bars on the Piazza del Comune that offer fantastic hot chocolate. Please leave a comment if you’ve discovered them already, as we’d love to visit too!